least, on one side of the shoots. Indeed, although we say cut to three eyes, it is not at all necessary to cut so close; there must be only three eyes left, but, as I said on pruning roses, these three eyes need not be the very lowest ones on the shoot; the three lowest eyes that are best placed on the shoot are to be preferred, say one on each side of the shoot, and the last underneath it; for older plants that have been thus treated in former years, one need not be so particular, because, if the foundation is already well laid, you can hardly build wrong upon it, provided you do not allow strong eyes to grow from the upper side of a branch close to its bottom. All upright shoots in the centre of a geranium are better avoided, and it is easier to cut out the eye at first than to train down the shoot from it afterwards. When weak shoots occur, they must be cut to the best placed eye, and only that one left to grow. Nothing looks so ugly as to have long brown shoots on an old geranium. The older the plant is, the better clothed it should appear at the bottom, but that can hardly be obtained if the shoots are allowed to spring up directly from the bottom. All the main shoots, while they are young, ought to be trained a little sideways. But what is to be done with those deplorable skeletons that have not a leaf, or a trace of a bud within twelve or eighteen inches of the pot, and their tops so tall as to darken the window lights? for in a greenhouse if ever so small we never see such bad gardening now-a-days. Half the world would say, throw them in the dust-hole and buy new ones: very good advice if they would follow it up by handing over wherewithal to buy them; but nothing is easier for careless people than to say buy a set of new things-plants or any thing else; but where on earth is the money to come from for all this? It is often as difficult to buy a geranium as to buy a new carriage. They have an old saying in the Highlands, that a man is not worthy of a new pair of shoes until he learns how to mend his old ones; and we may apply the adage on this side of "the border" by saying that he we who cannot prune his old geraniums properly should never be indulged with young ones. Therefore, we must prune down those long-legged plants, even if we lose them in the attempt; and if we should kill them, we may as well do so at three or four inches from the pot as at ten. Let that be the mark, therefore; choose a smooth part between two joints, and off with the top at one cut. "Here is a pretty dilemma we have just got into! Why that plant will bleed itself to death; we forgot to let it get quite dry before cutting it. If THE COTTAGE GARDENER was to get hold of this, we should have the whole laugh of the parish against us." However, there was a remedy or two mentioned lately in our pages for bleeding in the vine, and this will be a capital opportunity to prove the effect, but I must entrust you with the experiment; only, I may just remark that this stump of a plant had better be put into the kitchen window, as being the warmest place, and, if it will get over the double misfortune--I mean this bleeding and the long legs-it will do so the sooner by being kept in the warmest place. Give it no water till this wound is quite dried over; after that, you may give it a plentiful watering, and if you sprinkle a little water over it now and then, it will not fail to make a good plant yet, if the roots are quite healthy.

D. BEATON.

STOVE AND HOTHOUSE.

Ar this advanced period of the season there will be some difficulty in rendering this department, all at once, popular and instructive; because, in the first place, those who possess these structures in their gardens will already have gone through many of the processes which it will be my province to describe and analyze; and secondly, because, from those possessing as yet neither stove nor greenhouse, we cannot expect at first to receive great attention; more especially amid the joyous and the beautiful that are now so attractive in external nature. Why (they may ask) should we now trouble ourselves with plants and produce, which only the rich can command, when we can so easily, without traversing the damp paths and close humid atmosphere of hothouses, mark and enjoy the gorgeous beauty of opening flowers, shedding their fragrant perfume in an atmosphere common alike to prince and peasant; amid those gentle breezes just sufficient, along with passing clouds, to deprive the sun of its fierceness, and spread the glow of ruddy health over the cheek of female loveliness! or, reposing under the shade of trees, this season more than ordinarily luxuriant in their verdure, thence to listen to the rasp of the mower's scythe, mellowed in its tone by the hum and carol of the sprightly hay-maker; thence to see the cattle up to their knees in herbage, lashing gently their sides in ecstasy, and thus, by many associations, lending vivacity and cheerfulness to the richest scenes; and thence to feel the pleasant mingled odour, wafted alike from new-made hay and flowers of all hues and forms, whether peeping from the hedge bank, adorning the meadow, or gracing the parterre!

In order to experience contentment, or what is taken for such, a practice is too generally in operation of undervaluing what we do not possess, and painting in high colours our own acquisitions. Such a practice is just emblematical of the conduct of the fox who pronounced the grapes to be as sour as crabs, merely because he could not get hold of them; different modifications of the same principle is seen in those who envy what is splendid in a neighbour's garden, and become dissatisfied with their own, though, upon a certain scale, the one may be as near perfection as the other. Both practices arise from want of gardening knowledge, and intellectual and benevolent expansion of mind. What is beautiful in plants should be admired for its beauty alone. The pleasure arising from producing and tending that beauty is a different thing. Whether the plant be grown in hothouse, greenhouse, garden, or field, its peculiar beauty should at once be recognised. Cultivate plants with such a spirit, and they will 'promote that which is civilising, soul elevating, and goodness tending. If you have no hothouse of your own, yet in that of your neighbour you may see much to admire, much to stir to emulation, nothing for mean jealous envy, but many things practised, which will act as hints and lessons. The methods of culture are many and diversified; the principles on which they are based are few and simple; and thus, in treating the department assigned to us, we trust we may be able to throw out hints that will be useful to the mere general reader.

PLANT STOVE.

Every glass structure connected with a demesne, however small it may be, ought at all times to be an object of attraction. Its very presence ought ever to carry with it the ideas of fitness and utility. Fre

quently this is lost sight of during the summer. The flower-garden is everything-the plant houses have been made subservient to its decoration; and one, at least, becomes little better than a receptacle for a jumble of et ceteras that should never prominently meet the eye. Where there is a stove and greenhouse, the plants of the former are frequently transferred into the latter during the summer months, while the denizens of the latter are turned out of doors. This change will be of advantage to both if performed with judgment, as at this season of the year, unless in extreme cases, no artificial heat will be wanted, with the exception of giving less air and more moisture. Stove plants require much the same management as those generally found in the greenhouse. When in bloom, the lower temperature of the greenhouse will preserve it longer; while the fine massy leaves that many stove plants possess will give an air of dignity and tropical interest to the greenhouse, which it would not otherwise have. But, even to attain this desirable object, no greenhouse plant, unless of the hardiest nature, should be turned out of doors, even to the most sheltered spot, before its fresh young wood is made; and no stove plant should remain longer in the greenhouse than the state of its growth may require.

A low tempe

rature, with shade, will preserve the bloom; a low temperature, with plenty of air and light, will harden and ripen the young wood; but a higher temperature and a closer humid atmosphere will be required, after flowering, to stimulate growth. Where there is only one house, much may be done by having several glass or transparent calico partitions, by means of which different degrees of temperature and humidity may easily be maintained; and, failing these partitions, the plants must be arranged in groups at the different ends of the house, that as much as possible their individual wants may be attended to. With tact and attention the smallest place may thus be rendered interesting, because due regard will be had for the principle of fitness and unity of expression. This fitness and unity can never be seen where any part of a garden, and more especially a structure for plants, appears in a neglected state. The ideas and expec

tations which such structures awaken should never be disappointed by inattention to culture or cleanli

ness.

Be beautiful in expression, if you can, every where in your garden, but, in your plant houses, have some of your choicest gems, and then your friends, as well as yourself, will see that you do not possess a house without an object. A few good plants, with plenty of room for them, will at all times, but more especially in summer, produce a better effect than mere large collections Great opportunities have been presented of late years for decorating the stove, during the summer and autumn, with soft wooded plants, such as the achimenes and gesneræ, &c., which require no room in winter, and which, though when forwarded, bloom beautifully in the greenhouse or window during summer, yet generally maintain a richer luxuriance when continued in the closer atmosphere of the stove. In circumstances, however, where utility rather than ornament, the sense of taste rather than the senses of smell and vision, are to be gratified, the stove may be partly changed into a

FORCING HOUSE

for the growth of cucumbers, melons, strawberries, figs, and peaches in pots, and vines up the rafters alternately with creepers, or in pots, either trained up a rafter, or round stakes, or a trellis. Much in a little space will thus be produced, and, where industry is

combined with intelligence, very gratifying results will be obtained. Of course, mere profit, in such a combination, must be a secondary consideration; extra attention to cleanliness and the keeping down of insects will be requisite, but there will be not only the satisfaction of eating produce reared under your own inspection, but amid many, or, at least, some failures, there will be acquired that general practical knowledge, the safest companion and the best testing agent of science. ROBERT FISH.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

CELERY.-This vegetable, the cultivation of which is so well worthy of attention, cannot be too much watered in dry weather; and to produce it large, crisp, and of fine flavour, liquid manure must be abundantly supplied. Care must be taken in removing the pricked out plants, to the permanent beds or trenches, that a nice ball of earth is attached to each root, that all superfluous suckers are removed, and the plants put into the earth with the collar just above the surface; for nothing is so likely to retard the growth of celery as placing the collar of the plant in the ground. A considerable growth must be allowed previously to the commencement of applying earth to bleach it.

ROUTINE MANAGEMENT.-Cardoons may still be transplanted with success, and those that are already established should have the earth's surface well stirred about them, and good manure water pretty liberally applied. Cape brocoli, of both the white and the purple sorts, coleworts, and cauliflowers, should be planted in succession; and the last sowings made for the present season. Mulch all growing crops, and, if dry weather prevails, apply liberal soakings of water. Trench and fork all spare ground, that slugs may be thereby banished, and the soil kept in a healthy state. Some of the early kinds of potatoes will now be ripe enough to take up, and some of the middling sized tubers stored for seed. The ground, after the potatoes are taken up, should at once be cropped with turnips, or some of the kale family, or any other winter vegetable. Turnips should be sown in succession; and to prevent the ravages of the fly, apply a dusting of dry charcoal when the young foliage is moist either with dew or with gentle showers. In small gardens, the leaves may be sprinkled over with water in the evening, at any time, and the dust applied immediately, which will always ensure a healthy crop. Where charcoal dust is not easily procurable, tie on some green boughs of elder to a couple of sticks, or a temporary frame, as you would a bush harrow, and drag it over the turnips, which plan will also be found an excellent preservative of the crop. Swedish turnips should also now be transplanted out, either on the early-cleared potato or other spare ground.

CUCUMBERS.-If dry, parching weather prevails, those in frames or pits should have the ventilation varied for a few hours in the heat of the day, by opening the lights at the front part, by which arrangement the sun's rays will be in some degree retarded, owing to the light being thrown on the beds at a flatter angle. Apply water abundantly at shutting up time. If those vines that have been producing fruit for some time should now be beginning to look exhausted, and the application of liquid manure does not seem to revive them, let them be destroyed, and fresh soil and materials for receiving young plants be prepared and applied. Ridge cucumbers should also be well attended to with regard to stop

ping and regulating the vine, pegging it down carefully and securely, to guard against the destructive effects of wind.

MELONS.-Give all possible assistance to those plants that are now swelling off a crop of fruit, by the application of liquid manure: such as are making their growth, and have not their crop of fruit set, should be duly thinned, stopped, and regulated, as previously directed, and a watchful eye kept over them. When the largest number of strong fruit blossoms are opened at one time, they should be carefully impregnated during the forenoon part of the day, after having been well aired, so that they may be perfectly dry beforehand. After this has been duly attended to, sprinklings of tepid water should be applied round the edges of the interior of the pit or frame, and they should be shut up early in the afternoons. When the fruit has fairly set, and made a kindly growing start, lose no time in selecting the required quantity of the strongest and best shaped fruit for the crop, throwing away all others, and begin with a moderate application of liquid manure. As the fruit increases in size increase also the strength of the manure, leaving off its application altogether as soon as the fruit has reached its natural size. If these directions are properly attended to, abundant crops of superior flavoured melons may at all times be secured. No liquid manure, nor any other kind of stimulant, should ever be applied either before the fruit has been well set and has made a start, or after it has attained its full size. The preparation of a good healthy soil for the culture of melons, in the first place, is the most essential point, and of much more consequence than the application of any stimulants.

JAMES BARNES.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

MY FLOWERS. (No. 34.)

AMONG the many bright flowers that deck the garden at this glittering season the scarlet lychnis shines conspicuous. It should be carefully supported by sticks, as the stems are brittle, and a rough wind soon breaks them off or bends them down, injuring the appearance of the plant. The colour is exquisitely vivid; and, though the form of the plant is rather stiff and ungraceful, it adds extremely to the brilliancy of the border. It was brought into Europe originally from Asia; and it is said to have made its first appearance at the period of the crusades-thus marking a very interesting era in history, leading our thoughts again to Jerusalem, that home of the Christian's heart, and reminding us that as our ancestors struggled and bled to deliver the Holy City from the hands of the infidel, so should we earnestly and zealously "contend for the faith once delivered to the saints." Let us not strive about things only that are seen: let us wrestle for those that are not seen. The very colour of this doubly-interesting flower affects us, coming as it does from a soil crimsoned with blood, and in times when the blood-red cross waved over legions of brave and devoted hearts, all pressing onwards to Jerusalem. Does it not address itself with exhortation and reproof to us? Are we so running, so fighting, so pressing onwards to the heavenly goal? There is also the Chinose lychnis, and the lychnis fulgens, a native of Siberia: this latter is a superb plant. They both require some little care in frosty weather, but our common variety

is perfectly hardy, and continues to bloom for three or four months. There are also white and double flowering varieties of great beauty, but I have never seen them cultivated, and I believe they are not often met with in our gardens. They would add greatly to the effect of the borders, if encouraged, from their height and richness of bloom.

The gay, graceful fuchsia is now taking its place among the flowers, and rivalling them too. With

its long drooping sprays, and elegantly formed blossoms, it is a striking ornament, either in the window, in the border, or as a shrub. It blooms till so late a season that it is quite invaluable, and is easily increased either by cuttings or separation of the roots. I have seen a large plant cut with a spade into three or four parts, and each has contentedly settled itself in its new abode, and become a stout little tree. I like to see one well-shaped plant standing alone in the lawn, in its own little circle, with its tall taper boughs branching out on every side, laden with its long scarlet flowers like coral earrings. It has a beautiful effect; and this plant may be trained into a very full and handsome form. I have read of a close worsted net being a sufficient protection for the fuchsia during winter, but, never having tried it, I cannot safely recommend it. The experiment being simple is worth a trial, and success would be really beneficial to the simple gardener. Trained against a wall fuchsias look extremely well; their blossoms are so elegantly formed, and the contrast between the rich crimson and deep purple petals of which they are combined so striking, that they are peculiarly suited to a wall or trellis, where their beauty is most fully displayed. How lovely they must look in their wild state, in the woods and vallies of their native land! They are the rich productions of Chili and Peru, and give us a charming idea of the wild flowers of that fertile land. Their name is derived from that of Leonard Fuchs, a German botanist who lived and wrote in the sixteenth century, but they are very recent settlers upon our soil. The first that ever appeared in England was the Fuchsia coccinea, placed in Kew gardens in 1788, and varieties were not obtained till 1823. There is little in the nature of their own country to make them regret it. They tell us of rich mines teeming with gold and silver, it is true; and they tell us, also, of the cruelties and bloodshed that gold and silver caused, thus reading us a wholesome lesson, and bidding us be contented with such things as we have, instead of coveting riches which lead us into temptation and snares, “and into many foolish and hurtful lusts which drown men in destruction and perdition," but they have little else to say. How their warning voice endears to us our native soil, teeming with plenty, yet requiring us to use diligence and industry in its improvement, where we possess those blessed statutes forbidding unlawful gain, and urging to honest labour, and where we can enjoy our possessions in peace and safety! Let the cottage gardener, as he waters and tends his graceful plant, reflect upon the blessings, denied to many lands, which Britain's sons possess. Let him adore the unmeritted mercy which causes us to differ, and let him cling faithfully to his Queen, his Church, his country, and, above all, his God, for it is by His blessing only that England has braved the surges that have roared throughout the world, and that she still stands calmly amid the wreck of nations. The lowliest cottager may be one of his monarch's bodyguard, one of the Church's body-guard, one of England's body-guard, as well as one of God's faithful people; therefore, let him not think his garden

and his plough are all he has to look to. He will doubly enjoy his smiling home, and blooming plants, and fruitful soil, and busy labours, when he feels how much of his country's welfare depends on his steady efforts and peaceable demeanour. The example of one honest, loyal, religious cottage gardener is a benefit and an honour to the parish in which he lives; and who will not strive thus to labour for his country's service?

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

ONION-LIKE PLANT (T. Morgan).—We cannot "guess" what your onion-like plant is, nor would a drawing of it assist us much; the alliaciæ are by far too numerous and so much alike that we should very probably find it difficult to determine the species if we had the plant in flower.

SEPALS (Dianthus).-This name is applied to the sections into which the calyx is divided.

ROBERTS'S STRAWBERRY TILES (J. Roberts).-You observe that these being raised on feet from the ground the space underneath forms "a good trap" for slugs.-There is something in this, but we prefer flat tiles as these do not afford any harbour at all for the slugs. You say that tiles not raised allow the dirt to be "washed over them in heavy rain," and here your tiles certainly have the advantage. Having tried black tiles we prefer them to those not blackened; and we do not see how the flat tiles could infringe your registration, since a drawing of them and description were published in 1844. Whether we were right in saying that flat tiles may be obtained at a few shillings per 1000 any one could ascertain by inquiring of a tilemaker.

NAMES OF PLANTS (Un jeune homme). Your plants are Eutoca divaricata, Geranium sanguineum, and Veronica gentianoides. (Little Tom).-There is no doubt of your plant being Nemophila atomaria. Those flowers with blue-black petals, edged with white, are only a variety, probably resembling that seen by Mr. Loudon at Tonbridge Wells. See Gard. Mag., viii. 616. N. S. (A Country Clergyman). The larger specimen of fern from your church buttress is Polypodium Vulgare, and the smaller from the ruined tomb is an Asplenium, but we cannot say which species without seeing a larger specimen, and with fruit beneath the leaves. (Alfred).-Your's is Mesembryanthemum confertum, a greenhouse plant. (F. H. Earle). -It is Hoya carnosa, you will find directions for cultivating it at page 62 of this volume. (H. R.).-We were right at first, your plant is Geranium striatum. (Rusticus).-The leaf you sent is a young one, we think, of the Umbrella-tree, Magnolia tripetala. If you send three inches of the top and three inches of the bottom of an old leaf, we could say for certain. We wish all of our correspondents to know that it is very seldom that the name of a plant can be told from one of its leaves. (F. Giles).-Your pelargonium is not Pearl, its crimson flame has more the character of Beck's Annette, but it is impossible to decide from a single damaged bloom. The other plant is Bouvardia triphylla, a greenhouse shrub.

CINERARIA SEED (W. J. Edge). The last week of this month and the first week in August cineraria seeds may be sown to produce plants for flowering next spring. A close cold pit is the best place in which to get the seedlings up, but a window will do almost as well. BUDDING KNIFE (A Propagator).-Mr. Turner, of Neepsend, Sheffield, has sent to us a most convenient and efficient budding knife. It has a blade of the usual shape, a handle permitting a firm grasp, and, at the end opposite to the blade, a very effectual shaped grooved wedge of white metal for raising the bark. This metal does not strike a black colour with the gallic acid in the bark, checking the wound's healing, as would be the case if the wedge were of iron. This wedge closes with a spring like the blade, so that the knife may be carried easily in the pocket. It is the invention of a friend of Mr.

Turner.

POTATO DISEASE (Potato).-The leaves of your "second earlies" are blotched as many potatoes are when affected by the decay of the tuber, usually called "the potato disease;" but we have seen similar blotches on potato plants of which the tubers were not diseased; and we have seen diseased tubers where the leaves were not blotched. How are the tubers of your "second earlies?"

WORMS IN STRAWBERRIES (Rev. E. F.).—These which you have sent us are the snake millepede, Julus pulchellus, drawn and described at page 139 of the present volume. We believe that it does not feed upon the strawberry until this has been previously attacked by the slug, or has been otherwise wounded.

NAME OF INSECT (T. Morgan),-"The little, active, shining insect," of which you enclose specimens, is the sugar louse, Lepisma saccharina, common in dirty kitchens, &c. This is not a subject connected with the objects of our journal, and as we really find it difficult to provide space for intelligence closely connected with gardening, we hope that you will not seek from us information on other topics.

PENTON OR PAIGNTON CABBAGE (C.).-You may sow this during the first fortnight in August, the seedlings to remain pricked out through the winter, and finally planted out in the spring for summer

use.

CANCELLED LEAF (J. Dawson).-The leaf containing pages 21 and 22 in our third number, is to be cut off and destroyed; and the leaf containing the same pages given after page 84 is to be substituted for it. By mistake, the wrong drawing was inserted in No. 3. Your other questions shall be answered next week.

NIGHT SOIL (A. Z.)-House sewage strained, as directed at p. 7 or p. 60 of our first volume, is a very excellent liquid manure, but to

make it from night soil would be a disgusting process, and not at all calculated for any garden.

SIGNATURES (S. S. G.).-Our correpondent suggests, and wisely suggests, that if every one in writing to us would merely sign their initials, and the initial of the place where they reside, it would save us some time and space. Thanks for the report of your commenced experiments with sea-weed; we shall be still more obliged by a full report when you have weighed the produce.

CHICORY (Ibid).-This is the Cichorium intybus, and popularly known also as succory or wild endive. It is raised only from seed, which should be sown early in April if required for the roots, in a rich, light soil. Sow in drills half an inch deep and a foot apart. It would be by mere chance that shrivelled cuttings of liquorice root bought from the chemist would grow. But we have seen it kept by them in damp sand quite fresh and juicy.

WATERING-POT (W. W.).-You ask us which is "the best kind for watering flowers?"-a general question scarcely admitting a precise answer, but, we think, that of which the following is an engraving and description, published some years ago in the Gardener's Chronicle, is about the most simple and generally useful. It is made by Mr. G. Thompson, 390, Oxford Street, who states that its superiority consists in the roses being so formed as to give the water thrown from them the nearest resemblance to a gentle shower of rain, rendering it peculiarly suitable for watering seedlings or other tender plants. As the brass joints, which connect the roses to the sprout, are made water tight, there is no danger of its returning outside to the annoyance of the person using it: a is the spout to which the roses are screwed; b, the

box to contain either spout out of use; e and d, the holes in which the joints are placed; e, a large rose for watering flower beds; f, a smaller rose for watering plants in pots. We know of no reel for winding silk from the worms superior to the common reel. There never has been more than one edition of Gardener's Diction

ary."

RANUNCULUS SOIL (W. H.).-The best is a compound of loam, including the turf, from the surface of a rich old pasture, mixed with one third its bulk of decayed cow-dung. Continue to water your cactus until about September, and then winter it as recommended at p. 44. Your Banksian rose against a south wall does not bloom; perhaps you prune it at the wrong season of the year: now is the proper time. If you strew salt thickly over your pitched yard, three or four times a year, it will effectually destroy the weeds and grass. TROPEOLUM CANARIENSE (A Lady Subscriber).—Your plant" is attacked by the green-fly or aphis; and the large one you enclose, coloured light green and yellow, may be called Aphis canariensis. Cover your plants over with a table-cloth, and fumigate them with tobacco, according to some of the modes described at p. 270 of our first volume.

canary

BOX CLIPPING (B. D.).-This only requires to be done once a year. June is the best month for the operation, but you may do so now. Select showery weather for performing the clipping.

PRUNING RHODODENDRONS (Rev. H. Stevens).-The best time for pruning them is just after they have done flowering. Nothing short of turfing, burning, and resowing, will effectually eradicate the ox-eye from your field.

MIGNONETTE FOR TREES (A Novice).—This should not be transplanted at all, being one of the most difficult to nurse after transplanting; but prove yourself a good gardener by transplanting your small seedlings into small pots, as soon as you finish reading this number. Place them for ten days or so in a close shady situation -under a hand glass would be the best place for them; damp their leaves gently twice a day till they begin to grow, and in future sow in pots for this purpose.

BALSAM LEAVES DYING (Ibid).-When balsams get out of order there is hardly any means of doctoring them to advantage. When any of ours get deranged we plant them out of doors, and they often prove useful that way.

FUCHSIA (Ibid),-They only give Latin names to the wild fuchsias. English seedlings bear English names only. There is no English for the fuchsia itself; it is called after a botanist named Fuchs. It does add to the interest, as you say, to "know the Latin names of all the plants one grows," and their meaning too, when we can get at it.

FUCHSIA FULGENS (W. H. R.).-You complain that its rich purplish red foliage has become green as its growth advances, and you wish to "fetch the colour back." Why, you know, the leaves of our own forest-trees turn from their various spring tints to their "summer green," and no one can prevent this or bring back their early hues in the autumn, neither can you that of your fuchsia fulgens. It was ordered in the beginning that these things should be so, and that is the best reason to assign for them.

THE ICE PLANT (Ibid).—This is an annual which requires the same treatment as ridged or out-of-door cucumbers. You are too late for it this season, as April is the right time to sow the seeds. THE BEGONIA (Ibid).-This has been touched on merely in back numbers. It is now too late to rear it this season; but if you have it already, all that it now requires is to be constantly kept well watered and exposed freely to the air. It is one of the best things we have to bloom in a window without much sun, if first reared in a sunny place. Its names are Begonia Evansiana or discolor.

BEES THAT WILL SWARM ((An Apiarian and J. W. Sice).—We can only say, in answer to your statement, do all that you can to prevent swarming by giving room and ventilation, but should your bees swarm notwithstanding all you have done, never attempt to return them to the parent hive, for it is perfectly useless. A few years since, a swarm was returned to a Nutt's hive, by a friend of ours, seven times, and 13 queens killed! Had your swarm been hived in the usual manner on the 1st of June, from 30 to 40 lbs. of honey would, in all probability, have been colleeted by them in this time, whereas, under the present circumstances of being frequently returned, they have been idle. It is always so; when swarming is contemplated, work is abandoned.

TREES OVER-LUXURIANT (Leighton).-Your case is certainly a curious one. After so much pains and expense you assuredly deserve a better fate. By your trees making a vast quantity of "sappy wood," we should infer that they have many deep roots in soil by far too rich. In proportion as your climate (at Shiffnal) is cold, so should a more severe limitation of the roots take place. Had you stated the age of the trees, we could have offered you more certain advice. As it is, we advise you to commence rooting up some of the hardest worn or wildest trees this autumn, and commence planting on the platform or dwarfing system, directions for which will be found in our pages. If your trees make sappy wood, why use manure either solid or liquid? A more severe root-pruning would probably prove beneficial-it will at any rate stop the tendency to sappy wood. You will find a paper on trees circumstanced as yours are in about a fortnight. We shall, however, have much to say on this head for months, at intervals, introducing useful hints preparatory to the planting season. The double digging of your outer garden will be good policy for vegetable culture, but not for fruit-trees. We have examined your dried-up specimen of Knight's Monarch. We fear it will prove untrue. It must be borne in mind that all the first "Monarchs" sent out by the Horticultural Society of London were mistakes. For this an apology was made soon after.

LIQUID MANURE (S. T.).-You cannot lay too much stress on the value of liquid manure. One thing we must say, that it should not be applied in a crude state. We should consider that your powerful tank materials would carry six times their bulk of water, if the material must come in contact with the leaves of vegetables. As to the fixing by the acid, there can be no doubt as to its economical bearing. Your general policy seems very good. Your wall trees not bearing of course require no stimulants. Would it not be well, however, to use up the sewage matters on your farm, and to brew guano water and soot water for your garden?

GRAPE VINES, DEMERARA (A. P.). It is not improbable that yours is by no means a case of disease, properly so called, after all. We should opine that, from the superlative character of your sunshine, and the immense quantity of rain which suddenly supervenes, your case may be what British gardeners term "scorching." Supposing the ground to be good, and a ground heat existing of some ninety to a hundred degrees, and abundance of moisture, what is the necessary consequence? The young growth becomes enlarged in a hurried manner, and the perspiratory action is increased in a dangerous degree. Things like this happen frequently in England, and would be more plainly manifest could we increase the heat of the climate suddenly by some ten or fifteen degrees.

MAY-DUKE CHERRY (A Novice).-We commiserate you sincerely about your pet cherry. Do not despair, however. Remember what a spring we have passed through. Besides, you will find that as your cherry gets older the fruit will "set" better. This is always the case in our garden fruits-their grossness of growth is averse for awhile to fertility.

BOTANY (D. E. G.).-There is no better mode for you to acquire a knowledge of this science than by studying indefatigably the best publications, and examining the structure of plants as they fall in your way, endeavouring by dissection to ascertain the genera to which they belong, and their specific names. Lindley's School Botany is an excellent elementary work.

STOCKING A GARDEN (J. W.).—It would require an entire Number of THE COTTAGE GARDENER to answer such a sweeping inquiry. You cannot do it all at once. Each month has its appropriate work of planting and sowing. See what is said under the head "allotment gardening," and in the "calendars," in the last Number of each month.

CABBAGES, &c. (D. H.).—You will find a list of cabbages and brocoli at p. 121 of our first volume, and of savoys at p. 266, There is only one kind of cauliflower. Directions for sowing them, &c., will be found in our calendars.

WINDOW PLANTS (W. H. L. R.).-These when put under a frame are best plunged in the soil within it.

MISTLETOE CULTURE (H. R.).-You will find every particular at pp. 22 and 106 of the present volume.

RHUBARB CULTURE (Hortus).-Put some stable mulch on the surface of the soil over its roots, and cut down the flower stems as they appear, but leave the leaves until they die off naturally.

PIT BUILDING (F. Giles).-You will find full directions at p. 160 of our first volume. You had better heat it by a common furnace

and flue.

BEES NOT USING UPPER HIVES (Beta).-The upper hives and glasses should be put upon the stock hives at the end of April, and upon swarms about eighteen or twenty days after their being hived. The communication between the boxes of "Taylor's bar-hive" should be opened at the same time; both in Taylor's hive and in glasses a piece of guide-comb should be fixed, as directed in the appendix to the third edition of Taylor's "Bee-keeper's Manual," and in page 42 of the present vol. of THE COTTAGE GARDENER. Putting a piece of glass or small hive upon a stock after it has swarmed is useless.

CHALCEDONIAN IRIS (Un jeune homme).-This grows best in good sandy soil, like that in your garden, provided the bottom is warm, for this, being from Constantinople, requires more warmth

than the other strong growing irises. Our bricklayer has a large plant of it, which flowers every year in deep, black, sandy soil, with a damp bottom. Our plant was taken from this one, and grown in the same kind of soil, but not so deep, and on a chalk bottom. It only flowers once in three or four years. If you can remove your plant next September, and place it in a low sheltered situation with a moist bottom, but well drained, we think it will flower freely. It is a beautiful thing, and worth any ordinary trouble. All the strong growing irises should be divided and transplanted every third or fourth year, and the autumn is the proper time. When removed in the spring, only the coarsest of them flower the same season.

MORPHOLOGY (E. H. M.).—Thanks for the trouble you took to send us the specimen of roses in a transition state to a proliferous flower. In one of them, which received no manure, the axis was prolonged in the centre, having a fringe of eight young flowers at the opening of the pericarp, then a few leaves scattered on the new stem, with flower buds at their axils, and the whole surmounted by a large double rose. Many strange conformations of this nature are met with in the rose every season.

STOCKS FOR ROSES (Rev. G. E. L.).—You will find this subject considered at p. 176 of our last Number.

BUDDING ROSES (W. H. G.).-We are much obliged to our friendly correspondent for pointing out what might have led to a serious mistake, as some of our readers might have misunderstood the directions as well as W. H. G. The direction is this, "leave the wood full in the eye of the bud" (vol. i. 225.) Now, any one accustomed to budding would at once understand that the wood in the bud itself only was meant, all the rest being to be removed, so as to leave none of the wood in the shield of the bud, excepting that which belongs to the bud. If that wood is by any chance drawn out of it the bud is useless, and will not grow.

BANKSIAN ROSE (Rosalie).-Your Banksian rose has been planted twenty years against a south wall, thrives well, is under the shade of a large tree, and does not flower. We think it a pity to remove so fine a tree. Cannot you top the branches of the large tree so as they will not shade nor drip upon the rose-tree? Do you prune it rightly? It flowers upon short spurs growing from the previous year's wood. If those spurs or short branches are pruned off yearly, there will be no flowers. If you can have the large tree lopped-that is, cut backlet that be done as soon as possible. Cut away, also, all too luxuriant shoots (gourmands or gluttons) from the rose-tree now. In autumn loose the tree from the wall, and cut away at least half of the old wood. Train the remainder regularly on the wall, and close to it nail in all the side shoots of the branches left. Finally, dig the border, adding some leaf-mould or very rotten dung, and we have no fear your Banksian rose will flower satisfactorily. We would, however, remark further that, if the large tree cannot be cut back, it would be better to remove the rose-tree, and the best month to do this in is the latter end of October. Should this be the case, we would advise you to prune the roots of the rose-tree now. Dig carefully down to them at about three feet from the stem of the tree, cut the roots through there, and fill up around them with some rich light earth. It will strike fresh fibrous roots into that earth, which roots will be a great help to it to grow again in the spring after the removal. It is very probable the removing the tree would cause it to flower abundantly. There is, however, some danger in removing so old a rose-tree, but it is worth a trial.

ROSES WITH GREEN CENTRES (R. C. S.). Your rose-trees generally this year produce green buds in the centre of each rose, and to that extent as to mar the beauty of the flowers. Your predicament is by no means a singular one; we have observed several cases similar. The cause is a too great redundancy of sap. This may be caused by a too rich and wet soil; by too long continued rains in early spring, followed by late spring frosts. The first cause may be prevented having that effect by taking up the trees in autumn, draining the soil, and adding some fresh pure loam without manure. Then, previously to replanting, prune in pretty severely the long wiry roots, pruning the branches also in the same ratio. You ask what are you to do now? We advise you to cut away all the misformed flowers. The Bourbon Noisette and autumn-flowering varieties will push again, and produce, it is probable, more perfect flowers. Some kinds are more subject to this malformation than others: Madam Hardy, for instance. This variety in most situations, whether wet or dry, whether the season be favourable or not, and however good the management may be, will produce those misshapen flowers. What are we to do, then? Are we to discard this and other varieties with the same propensity? We say, no! use every preventive, and cut away the bad flowers as they appear.

APHELEXIS HUMILIS (E., Falmouth) or old Elichrysum spectabile, and the larger variety of it, called Purpurea grandiflora, are not at all difficult to manage. The same treatment as for the epacrises will do for them, and both these and the epacrises are managed in every respect as heaths. They are slow growers, and will not grow much after this month till the next spring.

PETUNIA SEED (Ibid).-It is too late now, and fully too early, to sow petunia seeds. The end of August will be early enough to sow before winter, but the first week in March is the best time in the year to sow them, the young seedlings being troublesome to carry through the winter. You had better go on crossing the best sorts this autumn, and save the seeds till next spring. We are not florists enough to say which really is the best petunia for crossing. What we have seen of florists' petunias are not at all to our fancy. Our hybridizer will notice every case of this nature which comes before us, and we think he can safely be relied on.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, 147 Strand, in the Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester, High-street, in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, 147, Strand, in the Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.-July 12th, 1849.