172 SIGNS OF NATIVES. We halted for breakfast near a stream of this kind, under the shade of a large group of the pandanus. This was evidently a favourite haunt of the natives, who had been feeding upon the almonds which this tree contains in its large complex fruit, and to give a relish to their repast had mingled with it roasted unios, or fresh-water muscles, which the stream produced in abundance. The remains of some old spears were also lying about, but the natives themselves were not visible. Immediately after breakfast I ascended a hill to see if we could in any way get clear of the deep stream on the banks of which we had breakfasted. The Glenelg was distant about three miles to the south, and I found that in order to disengage ourselves from the waters which almost encompassed us, we must turn off to the north-west, and thus almost double back on our former track, as there was no other resource. I returned at once to the party, and we spent the rest of the day in crossing two deep streams, and then proceeded about a mile to the eastward, where we halted for the night, on the bank of a rocky watercourse, but not containing a drop of water. The timber to-day was larger than I had yet seen it, affording many new kinds, and one in particular, resembling in appearance and quality the English ash. March 9.-We moved through a low country, densely vegetated, and still abounding in deep sluggish streams, almost unapproachable, on account of a dwarf bamboo, and other tropical plants which CASCADE OF THE RIVER. 173 clothed their margins. Some of these streams were twenty feet deep, and upwards, and looked more like canals than natural water-courses. The point where we halted for the night was not very distant from the river, for its roaring, as it forced itself over a rapid, could be distinctly heard. As it was important to ascertain if it ceased to be navigable at this point, as well as whether it could be here forded or not, I ordered a party to proceed at daylight and examine it, and in the interim we laid down to enjoy such repose as myriads of mosquitoes would allow us. March 10.-The party started at dawn and did not return until the afternoon. They arrived at lowwater at a point where the river formed a series of rapids, and was apparently broken into several channels; the one which they reached was not more than fifty or sixty yards wide, the tide at low water being full seven or eight feet below the level of the rocks which formed the rapids, but at high water it rose, judging from the marks on the rocks, as many feet above them. This channel would, therefore, cease to be navigable for vessels at this point, but large boats could proceed up it at high water. There was no apparent possibility of our being able to pass it hereabouts, on account of the great rapidity of the current. The river continued fresh below the rapids, and their account of the character of the country they saw was most satisfactory. Almost immediately after they had entered the camp the rain began to fall in such torrents that it 174 INCONVENIENT HALTING PLACE. was impossible for us to move; this was unfortunate, for where we were halted was unfit for a day's resting-place, and we should consequently be compelled to move on Sunday morning, instead of making it a day of perfect rest. The point where the party made the river to-day was about s. lat. 15° 41'; E. long. 124° 53'. CHAPTER IX. TO THE UPPER GLENELG. WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY-MOUNT LYELL-MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT -- -MARKS OF INUNDATIONS-NATIVES COCKATOOS-TORRENTS OF RAIN-SWAMPS-SNAKE AND KANGAROO-NATIVE BRIDGE- PRECIPITOUS LIZARD PASS-FRILLED BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY WILD OATS CURIOUS BIRDS-PAINTED CAVE-CROSS A LARGE RIVER-NATURAL GRAPERY-FORD THE GLENELG-WEAKNESS OF THE MEN ANOTHER PAINTED CAVE PASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGES. NARROW ESCAPE - IM March 11.-THE country we traversed this morning was still marshy, and intersected by deep streams. The party had yesterday fixed upon a point for us to encamp at; but a sudden inundation having taken place, we could not cross a stream which lay between us and the spot selected, so that we were compelled, about noon, to halt at a position very ill adapted for our purpose. Close to our camp was a large mass of basaltic rocks, on which the natives had lately been, and had left behind them a few old spears: some drawings were also scratched upon the rocks, representing heads, hands, and other parts of the human frame: they were, however, indifferently executed. 176 VARIOUS TRACES OF NATIVES. Another branch of industry which had engaged their attention was the manufacture of stone spearheads, the chips and remnants of which were lying about on every side. As this looked very like a preparation to give us a warm reception, I kept upon the alert. From constantly sleeping on the wet ground, and the exposure I was obliged to undergo, such an attack of rheumatism had been produced in my left hip and knee, that I was not only crippled, but suffered such dreadful agony from my wounded limb, that I was able to pay but little attention to passing events. I crept about, however, as well as I could, and found that we were in a very populous neighbourhood. At one place, a large party of natives appeared to have lived for some time, -twelve bark beds having been left in a circle round a fire. In this respect they differ in custom from the natives of the southern parts of Australia, who generally sleep all of a heap, or, at least, four or five persons together, whereas each individual here appeared to occupy his own little bark bed. In the course of the morning's march, we had passed a very neat native oven, or fire-place, much more carefully constructed than anything of the kind I have since seen; it consisted of a hole sunk eight inches deep in the earth, which was quite circular, three feet in diameter, and very neatly paved and lined with flat stones; the last article cooked here had been a large quantity of turtles' eggs, the remnants of which were lying scattered all around. This is a dish by no means to be |