was not to quit the place where she might have been left by it, until such a time had elapsed, from the departure of the expedition for the interior, as should be agreed upon; and to ensure the observance of this condition, we were instructed to act by the advice of the local authorities of the colony, where she might be engaged, in drawing up the agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its fulfilment.

5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to be :-To gain information as to the real state of North-Western Australia, its resources, and the course and direction of its rivers and mountain ranges; to familiarize the natives with the British name and character; to search for and record all information regarding the natural productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its capabilities for colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of its natural history.

6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the regulations, by which our intercourse with the natives was to be governed, were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following paragraphs:

"No further detail has been given you in these "instructions, for as you have been made aware of "the motives, which have induced his Majesty's "Government to send out the expedition, it is sup"posed each individual will do his utmost in his "situation to carry these objects out, either by ob'taining all possible information, or by such other "means as may be in his power."

66

"Although the instructions regarding the expedi

TENERIFFE—AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.

5

"tion are addressed to you conjointly, as conductors "of it, it is necessary that the principal authority "and direction should be vested in one individual, "on whom the chief responsibility would rest.

"It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, "the senior military officer, is considered as com"manding the party, and the person by whose "orders and instructions all individuals composing "the party will be guided and conform."

All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle, besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon and naturalist, and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July, 1837.

The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, where I landed on Wednesday, 19th July, 1837, about 2 o'clock in the afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hôte at 3 o'clock, at an hotel kept by an Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing, as I met there a German, and several English merchants, who were principally engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman, who had been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, &c.; and he gave me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals so occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic observations, and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which, at about three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the town,

6.

EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.

approaches it by a passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and noble, the actual plan, upon which it has been completed, was by no means well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its breadth, in many parts, is not more than four.

Previously to the construction of this aqueduct, the town of Santa Cruz was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so, that the inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been experienced since its completion. The expences of its construction, as also of keeping it in repair, are principally defrayed by a tax upon all wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.

The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic, but by no means rich; figtrees grew wild about the mountains, and it seemed singular, that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent hills, shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide, this was done to deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and upon my return to the town, and making further enquiries, I found that such was their custom.

July 20th.-I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about 30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small

CAMELS-MATANZAS-THE GUANCHES.

7

ponies, admirably adapted to the wretched roads of the country, and accompanied by two guides, who carried our carpet bags.

The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. On this road we passed many camels laden with heavy burthens; a circumstance which rather surprised me, for I had always imagined that owing to the peculiar formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.

After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired, catching hold of the horses tails to assist themselves along.

We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter); so called from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards, which was here made by the Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the

8

SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.

Guanches here made the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.

All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains, I could glean but little information about them: but to this subject I will advert again.

Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then, swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty, however, arose here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish, although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the guides saw our distress, and made signs that he would arrange matters for us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill, and I saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked him for it, but he pretended, with the utmost nonchalance, not to understand me; so we saw no more of it.

In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched, but the scenery compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages, and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava, encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to the sea, which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.