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part in every campaign on the north-eastern frontier, and in Tibet in 1904; the 1st Battalion 2nd Gurkhas, a most distinguished Regiment, which from the year 1815 has made its indelible mark on Indian history and carved for itself a proud record in the Sikh wars, the Mutiny, Afghanistan, Tirah, and in many minor expeditions; the 32nd Sikh Pioneers of frontier and Tibet fame, and the 1st Company of 1st Sappers and Miners, a corps which has taken part in every campaign of importance in India since the beginning of the nineteenth century, who brought with them bridging and demolition equipment, as well as two small mortars called Castor and Pollux. With the force were two seven pounder Bubble and Squeak, and the maxim guns with the three battalions. A soldierly machinegun detachment of twelve of volunteers from the Assam Valley Light Horse formed the only European unit. In addition to medical supply and signalling units five corps of Naga coolies, each under a British officer. Later on a mule corps would supplement their transport work. Two war dogs, the property of Major Wilson, 8th Gurkhas, and trained by Major Richardson, accompanied the force.

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Since April the military police had been at work, and in September Colonel Macintyre, an officer of wide experience in Assam, took over his varied duties at Kobo as Base Commandant before the arrival of the force. The command of the

whole expedition was intrusted to Major-General Bower, C.B., distinguished as an explorer as well as a soldier in India, Tibet, Central Asia, China, and the Sudan. Torrents of rain and unprecedented floods followed the concentration of the force, the river attaining its full monsoon level, and washing away the whole of the foreshore of the camp. Few will forget the sight of the mighty Brahmaputra in flood, carrying along in its course huge pine-trees stript of their bark, derelict dug-outs torn from their moorings, driftwood crashing against the sides of the steamers and lighters at anchor. Operations were delayed, and the rain - sodden troops and coolies clearing tracks in the thick virgin forest were tormented with myriads of leeches. The preparations for the advance went on, however, and on the 20th October the first column, some five hundred rifles of the 2nd Gurkhas and military police with a few Pioneers, and accompanied by some five hundred Naga coolies, started in the direction of Ledum to protect the flank of the main column and and to guard the western frontier. Their departure at dawn was sufficiently stirring and picturesque. The crouching Naga coolies rose and placed their loads in curious conical-shaped baskets, carried by means of a band of bark round the head, while the Gurkha escort, one rifleman to every six carriers, with here and there a larger party, took up their positions amongst them. Each Naga carried

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dao forest-going, going, gone. The jungle swallowed them up. The turn of the main column came two days later, and in high spirits took the headquarters of the force, with the 8th Gurkhas and Light Horse Volunteers as striking force, and the Sappers and Miners and 32nd Pioneers left Kobo, marching north-eastward towards Pasi Ghat, through dense virgin forest. Their course might well have been termed "tunnelling," for thicker jungle it is hard to imagine. The eye could not pierce the tangle of creepers, and none but an armadillo could move unscathed amid the thickets. South Africa has its "wait-abit" thorn, and the Assam jungle its "bet," which confronts the traveller at every turn, winding in prickly luxuriance across his path, above his head, around his limbs, and will not let him go. With "kukri" and "dao" the track had been cleared by the indefatigable pioneers of the force, the military police, and a generous contribution from the civil authorities had provided coolies to work at road-making until the arrival of the force.

and wore a (sword) round his waist. The scouts and advanced - guard moved forward into the dark jungle, followed by the Pioneers, main body, and guns. Then came the hospital with bearers carrying net hammocks and poles; followed by the ammunition, signalling equipment, and baggage of the troops borne by the Nagas with unceasing grunts, suited to the gradient of the track. We were destined to hear and welcome these grunts for many a long day, betokening often as they did the arrival of rations or letters from the old country; but to my ear they usually sounded like the first two tones of the Chinese language, the leading Naga emitting the low tone, and his comrade in rear the rising tone. But on went the Ledum column, a few elephants accompanying it; the forest of steel became enveloped by the mightier forest of wood, soldiers and coolies in an unceasing stream, "Chelo, chelo" (get on) the ery. "Too long have we been in camp, brothers. Let us prove our mettle in the world beyond. Be the future what it may, the present is with us, and it is chelo, chelo."

On moved the snake-like, steel-tipped mass, the slowmoving elephants were engulfed in the jungle, the grunts of the carriers grew fainter, the rearguard was almost invisible, the last well-trained little Gurkha of the rear-guard turned about, cast a comprehensive glance around, and rejoined his comrades, who in turn will keep watch and ward in the dark

The pace through the jungle was perforce slow, and one could look around. How beautiful yet how awe-inspiring was the scene! The jest was stilled, and the majesty of the dense primeval forest made itself felt. Gigantic trees, interlaced with strings of creepers, towered skyward, blocking out the sunlight. Only thick massive trees can apparently escape the ravages of these parasites, tall slender ones being the chief

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sufferers. Twisting and twining around them, the creeper carries out its deadly work, decking the doomed trees with bizarre mourning weeds, festooning and bridging the gaps between with fantastic yet beautiful "pothooks and hangers" above the wanderer's head and across his path. The luxuriance and fertility of these noisome parasites, which like gigantic octopuses throw out their tentacles and choke the life out of the trees, seem phenomenal. Tricked out in every alluring form, as gaudy orchids, as tender tree - ferns, as feathery and thorny "bet,' luscious water creepers, green and flourishing, they carry on their work of destruction. The pendulous tentacles take root afresh in the ground surrounding the trees, whose withered leaves fall, and whose sapped, devitalised trunks sink to the ground, forming a carpet of decaying vegetation which, soaked by torrential rain, fills the air with a dank, pestilential stench. Now and then a glint of sun where the trees were thinner lightened the gloomy path. Emerald-green parrots occasionally screamed their resentment at the intrusion of so many visitors; otherwise nothing broke the stillness of the jungle save the tramp of the armed mass moving steadily forward in Indian file. At last our eyes were gladdened with a vista of trees, a glimpse of the blue sky above, and our halting-place.

Our next day's march led through similar jungle, but signs of animal life were apparent, and the thickets were

thinner. The spoor of a buffalo and the "pug" of "Stripes" were visible near a stream, whose waters were deep-green by reason of the mass of foliage overhanging. The curious whirr of the "cicada," the screech of the hornbill, and the cough of a startled barking deer were heard, and gorgeous butterflies flitted to and fro. At the close of our next day's march we reached Pasi Ghat on the Dihang, the gate of Aborland. We had traversed the plains, and now the foothills led up to the strongholds of the Abors. Above us towered Rigam, the sacred mountain of the Abors, alleged to be the dwelling-place of a deity in the guise of a fish, who swims in a tank near the summit. Our objectives were the villages of Rotung and Kebang. Meanwhile reports

came in from the active Ledum column of encounters with hostile tribesmen.

Little was known about the country in front of us. Owing to the difficulties of transport no tents were carried with the force, and the chronicle of the next three weeks with the main column, in what is probably the rainiest part of the world, is but a dreary one, telling the tale, as it does, of constant jungle-clearing, roadmaking, of brushes with elusive Abors, of attempted ambushes, of rock-shutes discharged, of fatal casualties from poisoned arrows, of rain - sodden bivouacs, of fever and water-logged camps. Of the pomp and circumstance of glorious war there was little, only a bedraggled slender force moving

step by step into country whose difficulties seemed to increase every day. The foothills were succeeded by steeper hills heavily forested; no clearings existed unless there was cultivation. On the 19th November the striking force, with the minimum of baggage, reached a razor-backed razor-backed rock, the ascent to which was a very severe one, from the bed of a mountain stream. The information tended to show that a stockade, with its concomitant of rock - shutes, might be encountered near here, and while flanking parties occupied the heights, the main body moved forward from the rock into the valley below, a sheer drop, trees and twigs fortunately assisting the descent. Without doubt this ground was dedicated by the Abors to the God of Battles; forked bows with platforms behind dominated paths, arrow shavings were found, while carefully prepared bolt - holes through the cane-brake showed how the enemy had escaped. "Panjies," fire-hardened bamboo spikes driven in slantwise, beset the narrow track, while spring-bows were discovered in the grass. A barricade was made across a stream, to reach which a bamboo grove had to be traversed. Around us were the precipitous verdure clad cliffs, and a mountain stream dashed below. Down into the gorge went the troops, winding through gigantic wild plantaintrees til at about 3.30 P.M. a small clearing was reached, where it was decided to camp for the night. First, however, the position of the force had to be

considered; the spot was an ugly one, resembling a "bear pit," with a restricted bivouac, and possible rock-shutes, pitfalls, and stockades around us. It was obvious that unless the ground in our immediate vicinity was cleared and the heights above us piqueted, the force might pass a night disturbed by the attention of the Abors and their arrows.

The advanced-guard moved forward, followed by General Bower and other officers, while the preparations for the encampment were commenced by the remainder of the force.

A stockade was soon discovered, from which a shot rang out, and Dal Bahadur, the guide, one of the survivors of Mr Williamson's party, received a bullet in his shoulder. Simultaneously an enormous rock - shute was discharged and thundered down the gorge, just missing the British officers and their party. Staggering down the stone-swept path, Dal Bahadur returned to the camp. Fire was immediately opened at the stockade, from which showers of arrows were coming. With the rattle of musketry were blended the crash of six more rock-shutes, discharged from the stockade one after another, and the defiant shouts of the Abors. Both officers and men narrowly escaped injuries, Captain Becher being swept off the path by a heavy stone on his helmet.

Arrows fell amongst the party clearing the bivouac, and the first shot, the rumble of the falling rock - shutes, and the peals of musketry sent everybody to their alarm-posts, while

reinforcements were at once sent up the hill from the camp. Meanwhile General Bower had despatched a party of the 8th Gurkhas under Lieutenants Kennedy and Buckland up the hill to outflank the enemy's stockade, who, after a steep climb, succeeded in getting under the flanking stockades. At times unable to fire, little by little, although subjected to the discharge of arrows and rock-shutes, they worked their way up and outflanked the main stockade. Lieutenant Buckland first entered, followed by the remainder of the party, who encountered the Abors in flight, six of whom were killed. One was in close grips with a Gurkha officer when Lieutenant Kennedy shot him with his revolver. One Gurkha was injured by a rock. With the flight of the Abors the stockade was taken. Its situation was on a steep hill above a gorge, the path to it leading through a bamboo thicket. Its construction was 8 marvel of defensive ingenuity. Built in a commanding position, with every advantage taken of the shape of the ground, its right flank rested on an inaccessible height. The main stockade was constructed of logs, with trunks of plantain - trees laid horizontally to cool the attackers' shells, the interstices being filled with stones and the whole bound together by lianas. Sleeping accommodation for about fifty defenders was found in the interior of the stockade, which was a labyrinth of obstacles, and from which, by means of poisoned arrows and stone-shutes, cross, flanking,

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enfilade, and frontal fire could be directed against the attacker, while a flanking bastion forty yards from the main stockade was furnished with a rockshute. Again, should the attacker effect an entrance into the stockade, rocks and arrows would be his portion. Even after the stockade had been taken it was difficult to make one's way through the network of pitfalls, machicoulis galleries, loopholes, and traverses. scrambled round stone-shutes rendered innocuous by the absence of defenders, while one of them attracted our special attention, formed as it was of part of the walls of the stockade with rocks piled up against the logs, the inner edge resting on the ground and the outer supported by bark ropes lashed to a tree. One slash with a "dao" and down would crash the rocks into the precipice below. From the appearance of the logs, I should say that the stockade had been made some months-that is to say, just after the outrage on Mr Williamson's party, when the military police first took up their advanced post.

The ingenuity displayed by the Abors in defence of this stockade recalled the shifts and contrivances used by the Boxers and Imperial troops in China during the troubles of 1900. The topmost bastion of the Abor stockade was piqueted before nightfall, and in the dark those who had taken part in the assault climbed down the hill, reaching the crowded bivouac about 6 P.M. There had been no time to make shelters, and the whole force,

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