with us; but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was owing to the prefence of a female, whom, as we afterward understood, had superior rank to himfelf. As foon as this great perfonage had dined, the ftepped up to the king, who put. tis hands to her feet; and then the retired. He mmediately dipped his fingers into a glass of vine, and then received the obeifance of all her ollowers. This was the fingle inftance we ever bferved of his paying this mark of reverence to my perfon. At the king's defire, I ordered fome ireworks to be played off in the evening; but infortunately being damaged, this exhibition did ot anfwer expectation.

As no more entertainments were to be expect-d on either fide, and the curiofity of the popuace was, by this time, pretty well fatisfied, moft of them left us. We ftill, however, had thieves bout us; and encouraged by the negligence of ar own people, we had continual inftances of heir depredations.

Some of the officers, belonging to both fhips,. ho had made an excurfion into the interior arts of the island, without my leave, and indeed ithout my knowledge, returned this evening, aftran abfence of two days. They had taken with bem their mufkets, with the neceffary ammuniton, and feveral finall articles of the favourite ommodities; all which the natives had the dextrity to fteal from them, in the course of their *pedition. Feenou and Poulaho, upon this ocefon, very justly obferved, that if any of my people, at any time, wanted to go into the country, bey ought to be acquainted with it; in which afe they would fend proper perfons along with hem; and then they would be anfwerable for

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their fafety. Though I gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occafion, moft of them, through Feenou's interpofition, were recovered; except one musket and a few other articles of inferior value.

We had now recruited the fhips with wood and water, and had finished the repairs of our fails. However, as an eclipfe of the fun was to happen upon the 5th of July, and it was now the 25th of June, I refolved to defer failing till that time had elapfed, in order to have a chance of obferving it.

Having therefore fome days of leifure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, fel out early next morning, in a boat, for Mooa, the village where he and the other great men usually refide. As we rowed up the inlet, we met fourteen canoes fishing in company; in one of which was Poulaho's fon. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended between two poles; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive anc fecure the fish. They had already caught fome fine mullets; and they put about a dozen inte our boat. I defired to fee their method of fish ing; which they readily complied with. A fhoa of fish was fuppofed to be upon one of the banks which they inftantly inclosed in a long net like feine, or fet-net. This the fifhers, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with which they scooped the fish out of the feine, or caugh: them as they attempted to leap over it.

Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we proceeded to the bottom of the bay. Here we obferved a fiatacka, or burying place, which was much more extentive, and feemingly of more

confe

confequence, than any we had seen at the other iflands. We were told that it belonged to the king. It confifted of three pretty large houfes, fituated upon a rifing ground, with a small one at a distance, all ranged longitudinally. They were coverd and paved with fine pebbles, and the whole was inclofed by large flat ftones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges; one of which ftones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thicknefs. Within one of these houses were two rude wooden bufts of men. On enquiring what thefe images were intended for, we were told they were merely memorials of fome chiefs who had been buried there, and not the reprefentations of any deity. In one of them was the carved head of an Otaheitean canoe, which had been driven afhore on their coaft, and depofited here.

After we had refreshed ourselves, we made an excurfion into the country, attended by one of the king's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not fuffer the rabble to follow us. He alfo obliged all those whom we met upon our progrefs, to fit down till we had paffed; which is a mark of refpect due only to their fovereigns. By far the greatest part of the country was cultivated, and planted with various forts of productions. There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of foot paths leading to every part of the ifland. It is remarkable that when we were on the moft elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above the level of the fea, we often met with the fame coral rock which is found at the fhore; and yet these very spots, with hard-` ly any foil upon them, were covered with luxuri

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ant vegetation. We faw fome springs, but the water was either ftinking or brackish.

When we returned from our walk, which was not till the duik of the evening, our fupper was ready. It confifted of a baked hog, fome fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of thefe iflands. As there was nothing to amufe us after fupper, we followed the custom of the country, and lay down to fleep, our beds being mats fpread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himself very happy with fome wine and brandy which we had brought, flept in the same house, as well as feveral others of the natives.

Early next morning, they began to prepare a bowl of kava. We had feen the drinking of this liquor fometimes at the other islands; but by no means fo frequently as here, where it seems to be the only forenoon employment of the principal. people. The kava is a fpecies of pepper, which they cultivate for this purpose, and esteem it a valuable article. It feldom grows to more than a man's height; it branches confiderably, with large heart-shaped leaves, and jointed ftalks. The root is the only part that is ufed. They break it in pieces, fcrape the dirt off with a fhell, and then each begins and chews his portion, which he fpits into a plantain leaf. The perfon who is to prepare the liquor, collects all thefe mouthfuls, and puts them into a large wooden dish or bowl, adding as much water as will make it of a proper ftrength. It is then well mixed up with hands; and fome loose stuff, of which mats are made, is thrown upon the surface. The immediate effect of this beverage is not perceptible on these people, who use it fo frequently; but on fome of ours,

who

who ventured to try it, though fo naftily prepared, it had the fame power as fpirits have in intoxicating them; or rather, it produced that kind of ftupefaction, which is the confequence of ufing opium, or other fubftances of that kind. I have seen them drink it feven times before noon, yet it is fo difagreeable, or at least seems so, that the greatest part of them cannot fwallow it without making wry faces, and fhuddering afterward.

When we got on board the ship, I found that every thing had been quiet during my abfence, not a theft having been committed; of which Feenou and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the management of his countrymen, boafted not a little. This fhews what power the chiefs have, when they have the will to execute it; which we were feldom to expect, fince whatever was ftolen from us generally, if not always, was conveyed to them.

The good conduct of the natives was of short duration; for the next day fix or eight of them affaulted fome of our people who were fawing planks. They were fired upon by the fentry; and one was fuppofed to be wounded, and three others taken. Thefe I kept confined all night; and did not difmifs them without punishment. After this, they behaved with a little more circumfpection, and gave us much less trouble. This change of behaviour was certainly occafioned by the man being wounded; for before they had only been told the effect of fire-arms, but now they had felt it.

On the 30th I vifited Futtafaihe, where we fpent the night; but we were a good deal difturbed by a fingular inftance of luxury, in which their principal men indulge themselves; that of