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honour is justly due to the man, though I never heard even his name, who raised and preserved the Kentish Hero calceolaria, for though it would not be noticed by a fastidious florist, as it is narrow and longer shaped than any other of the shrubby varieties, and thus more slipper-like, yet the largeness of its brown orange-like flowers, the closeness of the opening of the corolla, the dwarf habit of the plant, the immense size when contrasted with all others of its spikes of flowers, if it be proper to call them so, and its continuous blooming when grown in good soil, render it either for vase, bed, greenhouse, or window-sill, one of the showiest things we have met with for years. It takes longer time, and is shier to propagate, than any other calceolaria, shrubby or herbaceous, that has come under my care; but, probably, it wants a little peculiar management. It was presented me by a kind neighbour last autumn, and as I was greatly taken with its appearance, I did not let it stand idle during the winter and spring; and though my success in propagating it was far from meeting my expectations, it yet enabled me to send some of it north and south as freely as I had received it; but several of the recipients have since written to say that they cannot get a cutting to strike. If this should meet the eye of the raiser of this hero, or of any other person who has succeeded in propagating it, with any thing like the ease of other shrubby calceolaries-losses in which, either from the cuttings not rooting or damping off, we never calculate upon -the statement of the peculiar mode of management will be acceptable to hundreds of its admirers. have seen it several times this season, when there was nothing remarkable about; and, therefore, to show that we are not selfish, but are as ready to do a kind action as to expect one in return, we would say that, judging from our own practice, this calceolaria will always be most beautiful when grown in a rich loamy soil. There will then be little growth so far as the woody matter of the plant is concerned, but the masses of bloom will be splendid.

We

We would gladly have filled our paper to-day with jottings about the management of shrubby calceolarias, did we not feel convinced that those correspondents who complain that they cannot keep their plants over the winter must have reference chiefly to those which are of a herbaceous nature, or are merely slightly shrubby. Now, we suppose something must be said upon this, though it is rather a sore point with us just now, for though we have had great success for years in the management of these fine blotched and spotted varieties, we fear we shall have a little trouble with them during the coming winter, as already the plants are all gone, with the exception of a few bits of cuttings inserted a few days ago, and these not so healthy as they ought to be.

Before describing the method by which previous success was obtained, I will first describe the cause of my present loss, as it may be useful as a warning, for if I succeed in preserving some favourite kinds it will be at the expense of extra-codling them. Previously to the plants coming into full bloom, though reared from cuttings of the previous autumn, many were in 12 and some in 16-inch pots, with large heads, quite free from insects, and the leaves green and luxuriant, without which latter quality I always consider a calceolaria a ricketty thing at best. They were then removed to a glass case close to the mansion, where the atmosphere is generally too dry to suit their nature, and where the usual methods for keeping insects at bay cannot be resorted to, but where they, nevertheless, answer the purpose of decoration for a con

siderable time. They are removed thence by degrees, as soon as the least signs of unsightliness appear, and are placed behind a north wall. When all were got out they were examined, a plant or two of a sort kept, and, as the green-fly had commenced their ravages, they were put into a pit, to be well smoked and shaded. Unfortunately, the shading was blown off in a very bright day, and was not noticed until the mischief was done, as the leaves-injured by the insects, sick with the smoke-were regularly done for by the sun, so much so that it is only a few days since that we could obtain a few green bits as cuttings, the plants themselves being useless. Now, there were two errors here: the first, not properly fixing the shading; and the second, not placing the plants under a north aspect. During the summer few plants are more impatient of full sunlight: setting the plants under a north wall, or planting them out in a welldrained north border, are the best positions for them, and, if not very bad with insects, a good syringing of cold water would send them a scampering. We have just pricked off into pans some seedlings. Those who have plenty of room would have done that some time ago, by sowing in August instead of September.

Now for the mode of management. I have tried various methods, such as the repotting of the old plants, and dividing the larger ones, &c.; but that which has succeeded the best with me in producing healthy beautiful plants, was by raising them every autumn afresh from cuttings. I have inserted the cuttings round the sides of pots, well drained, and placed them under glass, or inserted them in small prepared beds under hand-glasses; but I have never been more successful than by the following method: At the foot of a north wall, a space of ground was levolled; a layer of salt and lime was put down, to keep slugs and worms at a distance; over this a layer of coal-ashes, and then another of broken potsherds, over which was placed four inches of equal portions of loam, leaf-mould, and peat, with a little sand and charcoal-dust-all well broken, and the finest sifted out; the coarse to go at the bottom, and the finer at the top-placed in width and length to suit the size and the number of the hand lights to be used; when these were put on, a good soaking of water was given. When settled, and a little dryish on the surface, from an eighth to a quarter of an inch of silver sand was added, pressed smooth and firm, and the cuttings were taken off, and inserted in the end of August or the beginning of September-choosing the points of the shoots, in preference to cuttings from the stem, as they make better plants-there never being any necessity for stopping these large flowering calceolarias, however large you may wish the plants to grow. Those who merely possess a cold pit for wintering them, should set about propagating them in the earlier part of August. After the cuttings are planted, a slight watering must be given, to settle the sand and earth firmly about them; and after that, with the exception of a slight dust from the syringe over the foliage in fine days, and giving a little air in mild nights, they will require little more attention, until you take them up to pot them, some time in October.

In potting we use small pots and light sandy soil, with a little leaf mould; and, as the sun is now declining in strength, we place them in a pit with a south exposure, with shading at command, and we like to plunge the pots, at this time, in a medium free from worms and possessing a mild heat: the object being to fill thepots with roots as quickly as possible. The pit is kept close for a short time, but air must be given as

soon as the plants will stand it; and to assist them doing so when in this young state a slight dusting from the syringe may be given them on a bright day. I had better tell you what I mean by this dusting.

Of all syringes, Read's common garden one is the best, because it is the most simple and effectual. With every syringe is sent several end pieces, to screw off and on at pleasure, pierced with holes, to resemble roses of a watering-pot, with different degrees of fineness; and there is also one without small holes, but furnished with a jet, like a garden engine. A fig for all the roses, the jet is the thing for me. By placing your thumb of the left hand upon the point of this jet, you will soon get into the knack of so regulating it, when you send down the piston with the right, that the stream of water, as it issues, may be as strong nearly as from a water engine, or may resemble the finest misty vapour. This last is what I call dusting, and every cottager may have it in his power to give it to his plants, if he only procures a tin or pewter syringe a little larger than that used by schoolboys. Well, the plants are shifted into larger pots as soon as they require it, and plunged again; not for the heat at the bottom this time, for that will be all gone, but for the double purpose of keeping the roots in a uniform temperature, and preventing the necessity of frequent watering during the dark days; the object being to grow the plants slowly until the change in the day, and rapidly afterwards. At the third and subsequent pottings, the plants are set on boards, as the leaves by that time are generally sufficient by their shade to keep the roots moderately cool. Now, this treatment would not do at all in a cold pit, unless the season was very favourable. I have the command of a hot-water pipe whenever it is necessary, and by that means I can give my plants a moist atmosphere, and keep it in motion by plenty of air, which is the very life of calceolarias of the tenderer kinds; just as a stagnant moist atmosphere is their ruin. I like the temperature to be from 40° to 45 at night, though not particular in having it lower in cold weather, allowing it to rise five or ten degrees with sun heat. The soil we use more rough at every potting, and towards the last use peat charcoal and dried cow-dung rather liberally, in addition to the sandy loam; and water now and then with weak manure water, smoking with tobacco at the slightest trace of fly. The treatment to be given in less favourable circumstances will be again referred to.

R. FISH.

HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT.

EXOTIC ORCHIDACE. FRESH IMPORTED PLANTS.-When boxes, or other packages of orchids arrive in this country, they are too often quite dead. Some that are alive, have made roots and shoots during the passage, and these from close confinement are frequently half rotted. Others are alive, but dormant and almost dried up. Several inquiries having reached us, as to the proper treatment for newly imported plants of this tribe, we have thought it right to give our experience on this particular part of orchid culture thus early, that any of our readers who may be receiving parcels of them from foreign climes, may know what to do with them. We have frequently observed them destroyed by improper treatment, even when they have come in very fair condition. The first thing we do on receiving them, is to examine them closely, and all such as are certainly dead are thrown away at once. From all that are alive, we cut off all dead roots, dead shoots,

and pseudo bulbs. In some instances a curious new plant may arrive with some part of the pseudo bulbs quite sound, and the rest in a decayed state. This apparently new plant it is desirable to start into growth. In this case cut away with a very sharp knife the decaying part, and apply to the wound some powdered chalk, this will close up the pores and prevent further putrefaction. When these points are all well and duly performed, then comes the difficult question: "What shall I do with them; shall I put them in pots or baskets, or on blocks of wood?" ~ A good deal depends upon the kinds of orchids received, and the size of the masses. If Stanhopeas, we place them upon a shallow trellis basket without any compost just, as they are. Two or three years ago a large mass came into our possession; as soon as we received it all the dead roots were trimmed off, and the mass kept entire. In that state it was laid upon the shallow trellis basket, and hung up in the coolest part of the house, syringing it occasionally. It soon began to grow, and the following year flowered, and has grown and flowered well ever since. This summer it had nine of its gorgeous blossoms open at once; it proved to be the finest of all the genus, viz. the dark variety of Stanhopea tigrina. All Lalias and small masses of Cattleya, with most kinds of Epidendrum and Barkeria, we always place upon block, as soon as we receive them, without any thing else (such as moss or rough pieces of peat) whatever. We hang them up against a cool moss-covered wall, or in a shady place over a tank of water. They are syringed frequently, and we find they will grow sooner and preserve their roots longer on these naked logs, than in pots or baskets.

In this way we have succeeded well with that rare and beautiful plant Sophronitis grandiflora, and the equally elegant Barkeria spectabile. By this method we have frequently recovered sickly plants. A small plant of Cattleya labiata had been grown, or rather allowed to exist, in a mixture of turfy peat and charcoal in a pot for three years. It put out roots annually, and made shoots, the latter becoming less every year, and the roots entirely perishing. In this state it came under our care; it was taken out of the pot, all the dead roots cut clean away; a nice oak block without bark was procured, six tinned tacks were driven in not quite up to the head three on each side, the plant placed between the rows and firmly tied down, or rather laced down with some copper wire. Now this plant having been accustomed to the moist heat of the orchid house, it was placed in the warmest part of it, and received its daily syringing with the rest of the plants. In a surprizingly short time it sent out new roots which immediately laid hold of the log, and in process of time, the new roots enabled the plant to send a much stronger shoot than it had done for years previously. It was afterwards, when it had fairly recovered its health put into a pot upon the log, surrounded with rough turfy peat in small lumps mixed with broken pots, and is now in a thriving condition.

That fine orchid Phalanopsis amabilis which has been denominated very justly "the Queen," has been lately received from the Phillipine Islands in considerable numbers. Those importations have rendered the price more moderate. This plant is also to be placed upon a naked log. It will not thrive in, or upon any thing else. The roots will perish if covered at all. There are also three or four genera that require the same treatment as the last named. We allude to newly imported Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, and some Angræcums.

Fasten all these, as soon as received, upon logs, with tin tacks and copper or metallic wire; place them in the warmest part of the house, with the Phalaenopsis. If over a tank of warm water so much the better. It is a good practice, and we can recommend it, to dip the plants and logs frequently over head in this tank. It seems to refresh them greatly, and encourages the fresh ones to put out roots in a short time. In dividing shoots off any of the lastnamed species, we treat them in a similar manner, and invariably find them put out new roots sooner than by any other method. As soon as they have pushed forth a sufficient number of roots, we place them all (excepting the Phalaenopsis, which must always be grown on a log) in baskets made of round hazel rods, the size to correspond with the size of the plant. These baskets are filled with rough sphagnum, a white moss found in wet boggy swamps. This moss must be used in a dried state: first cover the bottom of the basket, then place the plant in the contre, holding it above the level of the top of the basket; work the moss amongst the roots gently, until the basket is full, or a little raised above, closing the moss carefully to the plant; then give a heavy watering from a syringe: this will level the moss, and close it too to the roots. The plants may then be hung up in the Indian house, and will require no further care (excepting syringing freely in liot weather) for a year.

We have often been asked what is the best kind of wood to cut for logs to grow orchids upon. After repeated trials, we find none so good as the acacia, commonly so called. It is the Robinia pseudo-acacia. This wood is firin, and has the desirable quality of not decaying so soon as most other kinds of wood. The next best is the oak. In all cases we strongly recommend the removal of the bark; our objection to retaining it being that it only serves as a hiding place for wood-lice, small snails, and other destructive insects, besides retaining in winter too great a quantity of moisture. The wood should be procured a year before it is used, and then the bark will come off very easily. We except cork wood, which we think very good when it can be procured readily for this purpose; and the bark of cork suits the orchids well, and, unlike the others, does not rot so soon, and consequently has not the objection to its use of being a receptacle for vermin. The best wood for baskets is the rough-barked common maple; the branches of this tree make the handsomest baskets, but as it is not so plentiful as the hazel, the latter is the sort we recommend. Some object to baskets of this description on account of their soon perishing. This we consider no objection at all, but rather an advantage; for as soon as the basket is decayed the plant has grown so large that it requires a new one, and the rotten sticks of which the old basket is made are more casily broke and removed than sounder ones.

We shall finally state which we put into pots when imported. We pot all such as appear from habit, and the soil adhering to their roots, to be terrestrial plants; draining them perfectly, and using turfy foam and peat to pot them in. Epiphytes (dwellers upon trees) should, when in large masses, be potted, especially the larger growing kinds of Cattleya'; such, for instance, as C. guttata, C. granulosa, and others of similar habits. Turfy peat, with the small fine soil knocked and sifted out of it, and mixed with broken pots and bits of charcoal-the pots to be half filled with drainage-is a good preparation. Raise the compost two or three inches above the level of the pot rim, place the plant upon it, use hooked pegs

and stoutish sticks to secure it in its place; give little water, even in summer, and none at all in winter, and you will find them succeed to your great satisfaction. We intend to resume the furniture of the orchid house next week.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

RANUNCULUS.-Last week we mentioned that the beds for the prize winning kinds should be now in a state of preparation. Perhaps, some of our readers may be intending this next year, for the first time to attempt to grow a few first-rate kinds in a firstrate manner. It is for the instruction of such new candidates for floral honours that we write.

SOIL. The soil the ranunculus will thrive in should be of a fine texture, easily broko and moderately light. It should feel soft to the hand, and have a little-but a little-sand amongst it. The best is generally found near to rivers, The flat land in such a locality will be exactly such as we have described above. Let it be laid on a long heap, not too thick, and turned over once a month for a year. It will then be in good condition for use. Remove the old soil away from the bed you intend for ranunculuses to the depth, if the situation is dry, of fifteen inches; if wet, ten inches will do. Put in a layer of very rotten cow dung two inches thick, then bring the soil, put in a layer of four inches, upon that put a layer of rotten hotbed dung one inch thick, and so proceed till the bed is full and raised two or three inches above the surface. Let the bed be edged with something (see the number in which these edgings are described), and do the same for this bed. Hoop it over to protect it from heavy rain, snows, and hailstones. Turn it over, mixing the materials together well; only take care not to disturb the layer of cow dung at the bottom. Let this turning operation be performed two or three times, at the intervals of three or four weeks between; finishing the last about the end of January, so as to allow the bed to settle by the planting time in February.

T. APPLEBY.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. ARTICHOKES.-Protection must now be given to this vegetable; and dry leaves, fern or mulch of any kind should be collected for placing round and about the crowns of the artichokes, to the depth of eight or ten inches, and a thin layer of earth from the alleys placed over the refuse to keep it close, and to prevent the wind scattering it abroad.

CARDOONS.—Bandage these with neat hay-bands when quite dry, and earth up. On wet days prepare fresh bands in readiness for future wants.

COLEWORTS AND CABBAGES.-Continue to put out these as long as any vacancies can be found for them, as they are sure to be found useful for some purposes, even if not required for table.

CAULIFLOWERS must also be well attended to. Pot and prick out in succession, keeping the plants close to the glass. Let the soil be frequently stirred, and all decaying leaves be cleared away. Sift dust amongst them occasionally, to keep the surface dry. Those who have strong plants from the August sowings must not let them remain too long in a place without pricking, or they are likely to become too strong, and liable to button," as we term it, at the season when they should be growing in health and vigour. We have been very successful in Devonshire in producing fine cauliflowers in the month of April for many years past, by sowing quite at the end of September and the beginning of October. We merely

place one frame for sowing on the bare ground, or fill up either the cucumber or the melon bed where it stands, with some of the old half decayed linings, leaves or refuse of any kind that may be then at hand, just to secure a gentle bottom heat. A few inches of soil is placed over this refuse, and it is allowed to remain a day or two, so that the warmth may rise, and the materials settle; a little more soil will then be required to fill up level with the top of the frame. The seed is then sown, and beaten down with the back of the spade; a little good earth intermixed with charred dust is then covered over the seed, and the lights placed on until the young plants begin to make their appearance, when air is immediately given by propping up the lights slightly at first, but increasing gradually both back and front, and as soon as the plants are fully up the lights are taken off entirely. The earth is surface-stirred as soon as possible, and a little dry charred material often sifted amongst them, to prevent mildew, or shanking, and to keep them in health and vigour. As soon as the plants can be handled they are pricked out on another well prepared bed close to the glass, or into thumb or small-sized pots, and plunged, keeping them well aired both night and day, and watering them with tepid water when necessary; as soon as required, we shift them into larger pots, never allowing them to get pot-bound, or to be still, and become stunted, as they would in that case be almost sure to button, or to form flower heads so small as to be useless. The beds, where the early celery has been taken up, are prepared by the application of a good dressing of manure, and the ground is well trenched, ready to receive the plants early in the year, when, taking a favourable opportunity in open weather, we turn out our cauliflower plants from under a hand-glass, where, if well attended to afterwards, they will grow freely, and become strong enough to produce good and handsome heads of flower in the month of April—a very valuable acquisition at that season when the winter vegetables are almost exhausted, and the spring grown produce not very abundant.

PARSNIPS.-When the ground is required for immediate trenching and cropping, the manure should be wheeled on to the ground, and the parsnips trenched out, leaving the bed formed either into sloping banks or ridges. If the ground is not required until the spring, the parsnips will keep best in the ground where they have grown.

YOUNG CARROTS and RADISHES IN FRAMES should be well aired, surface-stirred and thinned, and, if inclined to become too long-legged, or to canker, sift very carefully a little dry dust amongst them; and when water is required use it always in a tepid state.

YOUNG CUCUMBER PLANTS should have a very moderate heat applied, and a liberal portion of air. The heat should be applied at the top, keeping it very moderate at the bottom.

LETTUCE PLANTS IN FRAMES must also be well attended to with regard to liberal airing, surface-stirring and dredging, with dry dust.

MUSHROOM BEDS should be formed of dry materials, such as four or five barrowsfull of horse droppings, which have been saved for the purpose, four or five barrowsfull of road sweepings, and four or five barrowsfull of dry husky dung from the stable dungheap. Let these be all well turned over three or four times, to sweeten in some dry place. If the mixture should be found too dry to ferment sufficiently, then sprinkle it with a little water at the time of its being turned over. Shake it and mix it well together, or, as gardeners say, "give labour." The quantity of

materials depends on the size of the beds required. The place where the beds are to be made should be dry at bottom. The materials being in good condition proceed to make up your bed as solid and firm as it can be beat together with the fork, whether in ridges or half ridges, or whatever shape may be thought most convenient. Let the outside be beaten smooth and well with a shovel or spade. Then insert a stick to prove the temperature of the bed by. In about ten days after the bed has been made it will be fit for spawning, if all has gone on well, and the heat be found about that of cows' milk, but if the heat be too great defer it for another week, and shake open the bed a little to let off the rank heat. If too cold, add a little fresh materials, and work it up well together. Before putting in the spawn make the beds firm, smooth, and even; then open holes with the hand about an inch below the surface, and eight inches apart every way. Place in each hole a moderate sized lump or handful of bits, and cover it over again with the same dry materials of the bed If there is no fear of the bed being too hot, it may be covered over at the same time about an inch and half thick, with good turfy loam, rather dry and run through a sieve first. When all is regularly covered over, sprinkle the whole with water from a fine rose waterpot, and pat the whole surface down level, leaving it as smooth as a fresh plastered wall. Let it remain to dry off, giving plenty of air to dry it off the quicker. After this, the bed should have a nice covering of any thing like mouldy hay, such as tops and bottoms from the hay rick, or hay bands untwisted, or the like. Cover up according to the heat of the beds. If you have any doubt whether it is too hot, let the covering be light.

This

ROUTINE WORK.-Take up any nearly full-grown brocolis and lay them in deep, in either east or west wall borders, pretty close together, turning the heads towards the north. Cover their stems well up with earth; leave sufficient room to pass along between the brocoli and the wall, to prune your trees, &c. The earth might be forked up close under the wall, and a row of endive nearly or quite full-grown, might be let in with the dibble close under the wall. endive planting should be done in a fine dry day. Shake off the earth from the roots, and keep the hearts up close in planting, and put the plants as close as possible to each other, to make the best of the situation. A board might be rested on two bricks, between tree and trec, just above the endive, to throw off the wet in case of too much. Keep the earth stirred among the young growing turnip quarters, and see that the plants all stand singly, and at least eight inches from each other. Attend to the sea kale beds (see last week,) and asparagus beds too. Take up carrots and beet root in dry weather, get them in-door, but they may be packed away any rainy day. Do not stop to pack away when so much wants to be done other ways out-door in dry weather. Let the head, eye, and hand, work together, and plenty will be found to be done.

JAMES BARNES AND W.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

ALLOTMENT GARDENING.-NOVEMBER. In consequence of the fearful havoc sustained by the potato growers through the disease, it behoves every one, but especially the cottager, to take extraordinary pains in securing the other root crops; for, we need scarcely observe, there will be an extra de

mand for them in consequence. We offered observations, in our last allotment paper, on the keeping of store roots, and we need not now go over that ground again; we would, however, impress on the cottager and others the propriety, not to say necessity, of getting all those things up and well secured by the second week in November. Those who have them out later must be content to be regarded as either sluggards in allotment work, or very ignorant of the character of those roots, or of what contributes to their long keeping properties.

The carrot is, perhaps, the first to suffer; the mere crown is very susceptible of injury from frost; and for this to be frosted, or to be cut away, are two very very different affairs: the first will bring a rot, the latter will heal itself sound. Next to the carrot the mangold-wurtzel may be placed. These, too, are apt to receive much injury through the neck or collar, which spreads into a gangrene, or vegetable mortification, as in the carrot; especially if the plants were sown a little too early, and are in what is termed a "bolting" state. The Swede turnip is by far the hardiest, so that, if any of the roots must be neglected, let it be these by all means.

We have known farmers keep Swedes very well during ordinary winters, by cutting off root and top, and placing them close together (root end downwards,) in a fold, or about the stack yard on the grass sward-the rough grass proving a sufficient protection. This course, however, we by no means recommend; for how much easier is it to pile them up, and throw thatch and litter over them!

We would, for all these roots, select an elevated and thoroughly dry spot-shady if possible, and pile them up in a pyramidal shape, about four feet wide at bottom, and tapering up to four feet high; and this done throw a slight thatching over them. The thatching may be fastened down in the most simple way; a pole or two and some pitchcord being the only requisites-or, indeed, brickbats or stones may do instead of the poles. In using the poles one must hang on each side the stack or pyramid near the bottom, and parallel with the ground; and from these, strings of pitchcord must be carried at about every two feet. The weight of the poles, stones, or bricks, will keep the pitchcord at full stretch, and this will secure the thatching and permit the ready escape of water. Dryness is the grand secret in store root keeping; every means should be taken to get them dry, and to keep them so. To accomplish this it is well to wait for a dry windy day; for the wind in November is a more powerful agent than the sun; and to scrape or otherwise clear the roots of moist soil betimes in the morning, and through the afternoon, to secure them in the heat, thatching those stacked before leaving the work.

We have been speaking now of those grown to an extent somewhat beyond the allotment holder, who in general will keep most of his roots in a shed, outhouse, or even in a nook in a cool kitchen, if room should offer; at least his carrots may be so kept.

The parsnips, as before observed, may be left in the ground, and trenched out as wanted. We again repeat that it is excellent policy to spread the manure intended for the next crop over the crowns, and in trenching them out at intervals the ground will be ready prepared for a spring crop.

ROUTINE WORK.-All these things being duly carried out, the next consideration is to get all the ground possible dug deep and ridged. Before doing this, however, any draining considered necessary should be accomplished, and a scheme of cropping

for the next year laid down. We have not room now to go into the subject of rotation of crops, but must waive it till our next paper; in the meantime our readers will do well, we think, to consult the diagram scheme at p. 184 of the current year.

COW AND PIG.-We now wish to offer a few observations on the cow and the pig, for during the summer our papers were necessarily filled with matters connected with the culture of crops necessary for these useful animals, as well as for the household of the allotment holder. One of the first considerations connected with the well-being of the cow is thorough cleanliness: the cow is very nice in both her solid food and her drink. Who has not noticed the care with which she sucks, or rather filters, water between her compressed lips? This doubtless serves a double purpose: it not only precludes the admission of extraneous matters-the spawn of water-animals, &c. -but also serves to raise the temperature of the fluid before received on the stomach. The latter at certain periods is by no means an immaterial procedure; for there can be no doubt that below a certain point in regard of temperature the starving fluid would have a prejudicial action on the coats of the stomach. But, above all, how necessary is cleanliness in the stall or "boozy," as the Cheshire folks term it; here a regular system of feeding and cleansing out must be pursued, if continued success is to be looked for. One point we would insist on: never give the cow more food at any time than is really requisite merely because there is plenty, and to spare. This is foolish economy. Cows thus treated are apt to become saucy and over particular, and they will frequently blow over the food with their breath, and turn it about with their horns, until the food becomes quite tainted and dirtied, and then it is in great part rejected. It is much better to give them a moderate quantity at once, and to attend them the oftener. Whatever refuse food is left in their feeding trough or manger should be carefully cleared out once a day at least, and given to the pigs. The best time for this proceeding is, we think, when the cow is turned out-if such be practised-in the morning. shippon or cow-house being then swept clean, and the doors, windows, or other apertures for ventilation, being set wide open, the place will become thoroughly sweetened by the evening. The cow's hide, too, must be kept clean, any clotted dirt cleaned away, and about once a week a good currying all over the body. Nature teaches the cow that filth must be dislodged, for scarcely a day passes but she will rub herself, if in health, against a tree or a post: however, in many little enclosures it must be remembered there is not a tree; we would always then have a rough barked post in every cow pasture, and there is not a doubt of the cow making use of it.

The

The proper mode of dieting a cow, also deserves much consideration. At this time of the year much refuse vegetable matter comes to hand, rather suddenly; such as the tops of mangold, Swedes, &c. Now, such given in too great a quantity, is apt to scour; if added to this a second cut of clover, vetches, or, indeed, the aftermath, are material of a highly fermentative character, and all prejudicial when used in the extreme. We say, therefore, use them with moderation, it is better that some of the mangold or turnip tops waste, than throw the cow out of order. However, there is no occasion for waste; the pigs will make away with it. Care therefore should be taken that the cow has a certain amount of dry food daily with the green meat. We should say that not much more than a cwt. of green food can be given

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